The Commonwealth of Dominica, however, literally towered above the other islands. Rising from sea level to approximately 4,750 feet along its length of 29 miles and breadth of 16 miles, this small country offered natural wonders found together no other place on earth-a boiling lake, hot springs, numerous waterfalls on 365 waterways, living reefs for snorkeling and diving, an underwater warm spring producing the effect of swimming among champagne bubbles.

The more we looked, the more we were hooked. Where else could we experience this combination of natural beauty? With its fewer sandy beaches, we could escape the hordes of tourists. What's more, the friendly natives spoke English! Immediately, we e-mailed Dominica's Division of Tourism, requesting its packet of information on the "Nature Island." With our destination chosen, we zipped over to Travelocity's web site and signed up for notices on special airfares. Looking at available flights to Dominica, we could jet out of any large city to San Juan, Puerto Rico then catch a smaller plane, an American Eagle, to the island. From Tampa, it seemed unlikely we could beat the lowest standard airfare of $750 each. Travelocity's notification service, however, was free.

Now we needed to decide where to stay. Was this information available on the Internet, too? We networked our way through various sites, the most complete being www.delphis.dm. We found multiple photographs of cottages, inns, hotels, even, owners. The rates were published; the prose, revealing; the range, astonishing. We could choose to stay at a high-rise in the capital or in a bamboo hut on the Carib Reserve. Our Internet searches were leading us to discovery after discovery. Our biggest surprise was how eager owners, managers, and other tourists were to share their love of Dominica.

With many accommodations to choose from, our next step was to create a spreadsheet. We compared locations; photos of interiors and exteriors; availability of kitchen facilities; costs per day, per week, per month; inclusions such as meals, tours, and taxes. We even rated owner/manager recommendations and other peoples' experiences.

When Travelocity advised us of a special $450 round-trip ticket for a stay of 30-days, we e-mailed our four top-rated places for their available dates. Information poured back within 24 hours. Using our MasterCard, we booked our airline tickets then our accommodations. Amazingly, we missed only one first preference. Our alternate choice, however, turned out great, too. This bed and breakfast was located in a small town and right on the beach; its owner was a fabulous cook.

We went; we saw; we experienced thirty days of paradise for $3500, including everything from airfare to souvenirs. What do we most remember from our month in Dominica? The warmhearted people, the fresh tropical foods, and the extraordinary natural beauties of this volcanic island in the Caribbean Sea come to mind. These memories are flavored by curvy and steep roads, honking minivan buses and taxis, little villages and small cities, open-air markets and roadside stands, banana and palm trees, crowing chickens and bleating goats. The hiking and snorkeling were superb. Carnival or "Mas Dominik," the island's equivalent to Mardis Gras, was unforgettable as everyone partied for days.

All the peoples of Dominica are proud. They are descendants of Carib Indians, runaway slaves called "Marrons," and British and French colonists. Of course, there are newcomers, too. Almost every person welcomed us.

On the Carib Reserve, Olive and her grown children (Chung, Rosemary and Martin) told us where to see a canoe being carved out of a log and where to purchase the best handwoven baskets. We were introduced to flying fish, breadfruit, and Kabuli beer. We were asked to respect the natives' right to privacy by not photographing their faces without their permission.

In the fishing village of Calibishie, teen-age boys asked us to join their drumming and marching in the streets. French restaurant manager, Annick, introduced us to more Caribbean cuisine, recommending a Dominican cookbook. Bed and Breakfast owner, Teddy Lawrence, treated us to healthful ginger drinks. On a bus ride, Sistermay sold us a cassette tape of her songs with strong reggae sway and calypso beat.

Above Roseau, we stayed in a cottage of a former Miss Dominica. Still beautiful at sixty, Mrs. Harris presided over her hillside estate and downtown hotel with great charm. Over rum punch and savory crab bites, she recounted stories of how she lost her roof and a heavy wardrobe during Hurricane David and how an American industrialist tricked her "aunty" out of her antique four-poster bed in exchange for a modern bedroom suite that fell apart.